Ford Explorer-Door Lock Repair

Problem: Door locked (will not open) or actuator(electric door lock) will not unlock door. This may be sporadic or all at once.

Cause: Lock Actuators, and or broken door handle springs. (5 of them on vehicle…may as well get good at it.)

-Door lock actuator: Use ONLY Ford Original actuator parts from Dealership/other source (MUCH stronger/reliable!) (about 120.00 ea Aug 2014) You must specify to them Year Front or Rear Passenger or Drivers side.

-Extention springs (2) from hardware store. About 3” long with loops in the end. Low spring rate is fine..it doesn’t take a lot of force.

-1/4 x 1” bolt with larger washer and split lock washer. (large washer keeps steel from fatigue/ splitting..I had one do that after 2 years)

If door locks shut, it may only be the door handle springs, not the actuator. Often they both go bad and may as well be replaced together, due to the labor of tearing into it. 3 actuators and 2 sets of springs (one vehicle) have gone bad from 120,000 to 150,000 miles.

The Door Springs allow a rod to stay in the UPPER position so the inside door handle will be able to open the door. If the rod stays in the lower position the door will NOT open. The Rod comes to upper position by grabbing inside the door and lifting it, or lifting handle up and down from the outside.

The door springs are known to fail often (break or come off). You can tell because the door handle is no longer spring loaded with much tension when opening (2 springs). The old factory springs are difficult to

get back on(no future in it anyway) and the following new spring fix works great. (mine’s been on for years).

Remember you will NOT have to force any fit ups for entire project, if things match up properly. Be patient.

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-Remove inside door handle escutcheon (plastic part surrounding handle). Use screw driver to carefully

Get plastic hinge to let go and release part(out side to inside motion on L and Rt).

-Remove 2 screws. You may have to remove protective foam around handle.Turn handle to get it off of the rod (wire form). Grab Rod with vise grips and push it toward rear of car to open door. It does not take a lot of force. It will Never open if the springs are bad and a certain rod is not being held upward by springs offsetting gravity (See photos for vertical rod with springs attached to end) Someone lifting exterior door handle up and down(To make the rod go up) while you work the vise grips should open the door. If not, carefully run window up and down (many dangerous moving parts careful!!) and this may help as a last ditch effort.

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-Remove inside door handle escutcheon (plastic part surrounding handle). Use screw driver to carefully Get plastic hinge to let go and release part(out side to inside motion on L and Rt).

-Remove Door Trim Panel. Use Putty Knife under edges, Bottom and Side of panel, to pry. Slide it up and down till it stops on fastener and pry at that point. If necessary use Large Screwdriver for more leverage.

- Window/Lock Switch Panel in to door panel carefully. (also electric mirror switch if necessary)

-At this point you can see how the mechanisms work. You can check door operation. Pulling down on Rod will open door(the rod you fasten springs to later –See photos) You can check operation without closing the door if you lift up on edge/lip of actual latch that holds door closed (access from end of door and lift up with thumb to latch it and see how it holds to large pin that holds door shut).

You can also check operation by closing door. Open it by lifting rod or taking long rod that attached to inside handle and pushing it toward rear of car).

-Remove bolt that holds bottom of window guide (guide that holds window edge…nearest latch mechanisms. This will give you Much more room.

-Drill out Rivet holding Actuator bracket (plastic bushing may be around rivet end)(Don’t try to reuse old bracket...not worth time for VERY difficult fit up)

-Unplug wire from actuator bottom and remove (unhook it, NOT a tight fit, don’t force anything).

New actuator: remove bracket and put bolt in bracket hole. Tape it down for rigidity on remount (duct tape is good. Actuator will have go back in Bracket turned 180 degrees to allow clearance for bolt head. Actuator will still fit up great .

-Put new actuator in: rehook it (do not force! Use a little silicone spray if necessary). Plug connector back in.

-Attach 1 spring(3” extention) to end up vertical rod (see photos) and the other to part of the expanded (splayed) rivet that hold door handle. Attach the other spring the same way but to another rivet.

-Test it!! It should work great. To test door opening from inside push long rod towards rear.

-Fit up Window guide being certain upper tab locks in groove. Put bolt back in to hold it.

-Make sure all fasteners(Christmas Tree-Nylons) are back on door panel , not the actual door.

-Fit up Window/Lock Switch Panel in to door panel carefully. (also electric mirror switch if necessary)

-Carefully fitup/hang door panel especially at top next to window. Then align fasteners and gently pound each one in (use hand or dead blow hammer).

-Reinstall interior door handle –Attach rod end fit up handle with 2 screws. (fit in foam piece)

Here is that special Rod(with Red mark) that MUST remain up for the door to open. See 3" Extention Springs with normal D Rings on ends simply fix over rod end and on to expanded rivets. Works GREAT!! Use ONLY Ford Actuators. Other Pics are avail. If you get into it and feel you need a couple just email me. I would always do Springs and Actuator repair at the same time. Its not overly difficult. If you've ever changed oil and have a little patience you have the expertise to do this repair.